Yes. But most homeowners do it wrong and end up with a patchy, yellowing mess where a lawn should be. The stump is gone and then the grass won't grow. Here is why that happens and what to do instead.
After grinding, you have a hole in the ground filled with a mix of wood chips, sawdust, and the original soil that was displaced during grinding. That fill is not the same as topsoil, and if you scatter grass seed directly on it, you are going to have problems.
Here is what happens: fresh wood chips decompose slowly, and as they break down, soil bacteria consume available nitrogen to do the work. That process pulls nitrogen out of the soil rather than adding it. Grass seed that germinates in nitrogen-depleted soil either grows poorly or yellows out in the first few weeks. The result looks like drought stress or disease, but it is really just wood chip chemistry.
The hole itself is also irregular. Grinding leaves the void at different depths depending on root geometry. The fill settles unevenly over the first season as the deeper organic material compresses. Even if you seed successfully, you may find a depression forming over the next year where the old root ball sat underground.
None of this means you cannot get a good lawn there. It means the approach matters.
This is the fastest path to a real lawn. Rake or shovel the chips out of the hole. Fill with 4 to 6 inches of quality topsoil. Seed or sod. You can do this the same week as grinding. It costs more upfront (topsoil and labor), but the result is predictable and you are not waiting a season.
If you want to use what is there, rake the chips into the soil, mix in a generous amount of compost, and wait. One full growing season gives the organic material time to break down enough that the nitrogen problem is reduced. Seed in the fall of the following year. It works, it is just slow.
Stump grinding chips are excellent mulch for garden beds, pathways, or around trees. Move them where they will be useful rather than fighting the chemistry. Then backfill the hole with topsoil and seed. You get the benefit of the organic material without the lawn problems.
Remove the chips. That is step one. You can do it yourself with a wheelbarrow and a shovel, or ask the grinding provider about hauling them away as an add-on when they quote the job.
The hole left by a ground stump is usually 12 to 24 inches deep at the center and wider than the original stump diameter. You need to fill that void. Loose fill settles, so pile the topsoil slightly higher than grade, maybe an inch or two proud. It will drop down over the first season.
Firm the topsoil down before seeding. Not compacted, just settled. You can walk on it or use the back of a rake. Seed into firm ground rather than loose fill.
Water consistently for the first three weeks. The topsoil dries out faster than established lawn because there is no root network holding moisture yet. Two short waterings a day in dry weather works better than one long soak. Once the grass is 3 to 4 inches tall, drop to normal watering.
Spokane's climate makes late summer the best seeding window. From late August through mid-September, soil temperatures are still warm enough for fast germination, usually above 50 degrees at the surface, and the heat stress of July is over. Fall rains take over much of the watering burden after the seed germinates.
Spring seeding, March through May, is a workable second option. The problem is weed pressure. Crabgrass and broadleaf weeds germinate in the same conditions as lawn seed. If you seed in spring without a clean seed bed, you spend the first summer pulling weeds as much as watering grass.
Summer seeding, July through early August, is the hardest time. The heat and dry conditions mean you are watering constantly to keep the seed moist enough to germinate. Not impossible, just a lot of work. If you had a stump ground in July and want grass fast, wait until late August rather than seeding in the middle of summer heat.
For larger areas, hydroseed is worth considering. The slurry of seed, mulch, and fertilizer holds moisture better than dry seeding, which is useful on disturbed ground that dries out quickly.
Sod is more forgiving in this situation. You lay it down, it establishes quickly, and the fact that the seed bed is not perfect matters less because the sod roots grow into the topsoil below it. If the area is under 200 square feet (most stump holes are), sod is practical and relatively affordable.
Seed is cheaper and gives you more grass variety options, but it asks more of your soil prep. A patchy seed bed shows up immediately. If you go the seed route, do not rush the prep work.
One thing to note regardless of which you choose: the spot where the stump was may drop slightly over the first year as the root system underground continues to decay. Keep a bag of topsoil on hand to add to any low spots in the spring after the first winter. One pass with a rake and some extra seed usually handles it.
For more information on the grinding process itself, see our stump grinding service page. If your situation requires full extraction of the root ball rather than grinding, stump removal gives you a cleaner starting point for landscaping.
We serve Spokane, Spokane Valley, and surrounding communities. Tell us about your stump and we will get back to you with a price.
Technically yes, but results are poor. Fresh wood chips tie up nitrogen in the soil as they decompose, which prevents healthy grass germination. Remove the chips or wait a full growing season before seeding for a reliable result.
If you remove the chips and add topsoil, you can seed the same week. If you leave the chips in and mix with compost, wait a full growing season. In Spokane, that means grinding in spring or summer and seeding the following September.
Tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass blends do well in the Inland Northwest. Tall fescue handles drought stress better during Spokane summers. Kentucky bluegrass looks better but needs more water. Many homeowners use a blend of both.
Yes, initially. The void from the stump and root ball gets filled with chip debris, but it settles over time. Plan to add topsoil and reseed any low spots in the spring following your first winter. One correction pass is usually all it takes.
If your goal is to grow grass quickly, yes. Having the provider haul chips saves you the labor of digging them out yourself. Ask about it when you get your quote, it is usually offered as a small add-on to the base job price.
Call or submit the form. We serve Spokane and surrounding areas and can usually schedule the same week.